Fenghuang of Hunan Province – an Escape from Modernity

Possibly one of the most beautiful cities in China, Fenghuang of Hunan Province features all the ancient charm of traditional Chinese architecture, a rich history and culture, all staged along either side of a beautiful river with lush green mountains as a backdrop. It’s otherworldly compared to China’s booming mega-cities.

Fenghuang, often referred to as Phoenix town, dates back to 1203AD and later in 1715 the city was revamped via a makeover in stone with stone paths, buildings and a 2km stone wall that surrounded the city. Inside the 1.8km sq area with the the Tao River at it’s center there is 300 traditional homes, 20 streets, 10 lanes, temples, wells, stone bridges all completely preserved.

It is now a popular tourist destination but remarkably, it has managed to keep all its charm. In amongst all the visitors crawling over everything and snapping shots along the river, there’s still people living there everyday lives in the same way as there ancestors, the Miao minority. The traditional cultures of the Miao are alive and well, perhaps thanks to tourism and that it’s a small community somewhat separated from China’s modern progression.

The first amazing fact about the old town is the welcome absence of commercialism. While there’s plenty of shops inside the traditional buildings selling locally made products, you won’t find McDonalds, Starbucks or KFC or even the Chinese equivalents. Also, I cant remember seeing an ATM, I’m sure there is one but you may want to bring enough cash.

You can freely wander around the city and enjoy the magnificent views but some of the scenic attractions will ask for an entry fee, or you can buy a single ticket that gets you access to everything.  Just wandering around  and taking in the peaceful existence of the locals going about their daily lives, the beautiful stone architecture and the houses on wooden stilts that line the river is a great way to easily fill a day or two.

For eating there’s plenty of stalls selling the local speciality, ginger candy plus there is plenty of restaurants selling local fare, usually spicy, there’s also a couple of eat streets lines with food stalls offering up barbecued meats and vegetables, noodles and more.

More Photos of Fenghuang

Getting there: There appears to be a rail line under construction but at the moment the only way to Fenghuang is via bus. You can catch a train to Changsa, Jishou or Zhangjiajie from which there are regular buses running to Fenghuang.

High-speed Train
Train NO: T8308 / T8309 Changsha(AM08:30) – Zhangjiajie(PM13:07) – Jishou(PM14:56);
Train NO: T8310 / t8307 Jishou(PM16:25) – Zhangjiajie(PM18:04) – Changsha(PM22:47);
Changsha to Zhangjiajie costs 87 yuan taking over 4 hours
Changsha to Jishuo 119 RMB and 6 hours.

A bus from Jishou to Fenghuang takes around 1 hour, a bus from Zhangjiajie takes around 4-5 hours. Many people do a loop ie. Changsha-Jishou-Fenhuang-Zhangjiajie-Changsha as Wulingyuan near Zhangjiajie is apparently well worth the visit, it’s on my list for next time.

Accommodation: It’s hard to beat the accommodation along the river, many of which have balconies overlooking the river.

Map featuring Fenghuang Hotels

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3 thoughts on “Fenghuang of Hunan Province – an Escape from Modernity

  • January 26, 2012 at 3:45 am

    Fenghuang beautiful recommend everyone go there

  • January 26, 2012 at 3:49 am

    Planning to go there when the weather is a little warmer and onto Zhangjiajie

  • February 3, 2012 at 1:53 pm

    It looks amazing. I will be travelling to Fenhuang with my family to help take care of the kids. I really can’t wait to visit this place.

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